Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Jessica Griffin
Jessica Griffin

Elara is a seasoned journalist and analyst with over a decade of experience covering international affairs and emerging technologies.